Here’s a shocker, and I’d like you to sit down for a second, because this is going to be a revelation: I’m a man who likes beards. I love ’em scraggly and unkempt—the kind that people claim are hard to kiss (grow up, bitches). When they’re too manicured, I’m more likely to say things like “stop it,” and “why’d you go and ruin it,” but of course it shouldn’t get too dirty and the polite thing to do is comb the crumbs out and not make bad jokes like “I’m saving them for later.” I like beards, because they make people ask questions, or react: “Why doesn’t he just shave?” “Is he fat under there?” and “That would be too scratchy on my lady parts. No dice.” I feel similarly about the clothes from Uniforms for the Dedicated’s fall/winter 2011-12 collection. There’s nothing effortless about them. The guys who wear these clothes want you to think they’re very casual, but they’re not. And I like that. I like men who spend some time putting together a uniform. UFTD’s uniform focuses on relaxed fits, and the message, I can only assume (because I did not make these clothes or art direct the shoot), is some sort of narrative of a grad student.

He’s contemporary (I mean, check out those glasses), attends fashion weeks (with his friends who are buyers, naturally), takes drugs recreationally, is bisexual (and yet, is a wiz in the kitchen when he makes meals for his live-in girlfriend) and is a bit of a shoe collector. Even his lapels don’t conform to the traditions of starching or ironing—he wears them wildly, because his intellectual pursuits are much more important. He is finishing up his MFA.

He’s a part-time art critic, makes collages, imbibes with Michael Musto and currently has no STIs. Uniforms for the Dedicated’s fall/winter 2011-12 collection is satisfying in the sense that their clothes help construct these mini narratives. Just by looking at their fit and the materials used, I created a life for this model, whose only job is to sell the clothes. And he has. He may actually be in a Christian rock band, be a father to 9 children (and counting), or he might be a Glamorama playboy—but it doesn’t matter, because when we create these looks, we are, more or less, asking people to validate us. We’re literally begging for these stories to be created, we’re asking for people to react in some way. I like clothes that are somewhat open to interpretation. It would be too easy to just call this dude a hipster. When people put together an outfit (and really, really try something), the goal is for that something to be acknowledged. My guess is that wearer has his or her own opinions (“I’m just being a Carrie,” “This is art school chic,” or “I don’t care about fashion”),  but if you’re going to try something, create a character, put together a costume, pass or fail, the ownership on how that story is adapted to film is not yours. Self-expression is yours, but how your story is told isn’t. And to me, it’s more fun that way. In 2011, I was an “undateable [WC]” “homeless” man who “looks like he slept in a sewer.” This year? Well, it is too soon to tell, but I’m hoping it is just as good.

Artists Adrian et Shane have decided to hand stencil some t-shirts, and their slogans are awesome. I stopped liking t-shirts with slogans a long time ago, but above are two of the best (in my opinion) from their mini-collection. I like the notion of illustrating what clothing you’d wear should you be in the position to be gangbanged (why not, you deserve it) and I really like the idea of wearing a shirt that says Diet Diet when I am quite clearly on anything but. Buy these for me for Christmas. I wear a large. And buy some for yourself too, because tis the season to be gangbanged and wear ironic t-shirts (since we’re going to be meatpilin’ until January, at the very least). You can buy them here »

A great video shot to track the process of Shwood and Pendleton as they work on their collaboration. Two Oregon brands have come together using wools and wood from the local area to create some truly beautiful pieces. Check out the video above.

Bowen Ames is an artistic director and stylist originally from the Adirondack Mountains of Northern New York—he was born of a hunting father who has, to this day, been a source of inspiration for his evolving style. After working in Manhattan, Ames notes that he learned to appreciate the craftsmanship of clothing which quelled any dependency on trends. Upon moving to the oft-parodied Portland, Oregon (where he now lives), he realized that men of all ages shared a similar appreciation for well-made clothes—this group of men (most woodsy in appearance) could live quite comfortably wearing wool and denim 365 days a year (weather permitting, I’d imagine).

As for his beard, it is celebrating its seventh birthday, and he has no plans to shave it (at least not tomorrow, and likely not next week). Check out the photoshoot by Neil Dacosta (Hair and makeup was provided by Nica Demaria) that Ames conducted for BEARDED, and my interview with the beardo after the jump.

Name: Bowen Ames

Occupation: Art Director and Stylist

Age: 27

Location: Portland, OR

How important is your beard to you? Is it merely an affectation, or is there a story behind it?

I don’t feel it holds any major importance, but it is very much what I expect to see when I look in the mirror. As for a story: I guess I’m the story behind my beard, right?

Could you shave it tomorrow? If so, how often do you shave it entirely, or trim?

I’ve kept this beard for the last seven years. I don’t think I could go to back to a bare face comfortably at any point in the near future, but I’m not entirely opposed to the idea that my style might someday trend away from the beard. Still, it’s a stretch of the imagination to think of shaving it tomorrow morning.

How do you maintain your facial hair? Are you forever in an in-between state of “should I or shouldn’t I touch it?”

I totally enjoy grooming my beard, so I touch it a lot—mostly in private though. I really enjoy the sense of ritual in taking care of it. I like deep conditioning and combing with a natural bristle brush. Recently I have been fond of massaging in a light touch of solid colognes with an olive oil and beeswax base. I have a favorite scent that smells like a violin in an attic—a sort of aged cedar with a hint of musk.

Would you say your beard is an extension of your personal style, or have you forgotten its even there?

It’s certainly a major part of my personal style but I tend to forget it is there until someone compliments me on it. Then I get really bashful and awkward about it. It might be more accurate to say that it’s an extension of my personality—I’m a somewhat casual dude but I take pride in my appearance and enjoy playing with aesthetics.

What would you say is your personal style? I know it is a rather over asked question, but what inspires you to put together an outfit in the morning?

I think most people embody a style that speaks of their personal story. I grew up in the Adirondack Mountains of Northern New York where my father was an avid hunter and outdoorsmen. I moved to New York City at eighteen for art school and stayed for about 7 years, taking a job on the Upper East Side. I think it was at some point thereafter that I dubbed my style that of a scholarly lumberjack. The phrase still makes me grin and I’ll admit to using it as a guide while I’ve assembled my wardrobe—I’d attribute my appreciation for denim and wool to my dad. But I think New York taught me to seek out garments made with sophistication and structure. I love how simple but sleek a well-made Peacoat can be. I love briefcases and footwear crafted with rich leathers. Today in Portland, I still trend towards this look but have embraced my naturalist/bohemian/mythical side a bit more with vibrant prints and hand-forged jewelry.

Is there one item in your wardrobe that you would never part with? What is it?

There are a few: My boots to start. I have one pair that have been with me for a good 10 years now – they’re black with a double zipper, brown laces, and full leather upper with a heel strap. There’s something about them—they’re ornate but austere, completely comfortable while incredibly durable. They’re a go-to for most daily activities. I could also never part with my collection of necklaces and pendants. I love the stories behind each piece. Even if I wear one under my shirt, I’ve always got a little bit of jewelry around my neck these days. It has become a sort of armor for me and the final touch before leaving the house.

You live in Portland, OR. Immediately images of burly men wearing Tanner Goods comes to mind. How accurate is this statement?

It’s fairly true. Portland men, no matter their age or profession, tend to have beards and demonstrate a rugged sense of style. What struck me after moving from New York to Portland is the seemingly relaxed nature of that style. I say ‘seemingly’ because, in actuality, an enormous amount of attention goes into the design of these rugged, austere garments. There is a huge appreciation for the artisanal and sustainable approach to menswear in Portland—dudes here seek out items that are built to last and live through fluctuating trends. While a wool plaid shirt may come and go within the larger world of men’s fashion, a beautifully tailored and well-cut shirt with a really pleasing colour-story will always be appreciated in Portland. Furthermore, it suits the climate and so one can expect to see it come back time and again regardless of trends.

Is menswear one-dimensional in Portland (and what outsiders would expect), or is there a growing fashion community? 

There are definite consistencies in Portland menswear that one can expect and rely on. Jeans, boots, wool, and raingear are just part of our habitus. We go hiking a lot—It’s like our version of attending an art opening. But still, the fashion community in Portland is really quite vibrant. I love Portland designers like Adam Arnold, Gretchen Jones (formerly of Portland, now of New York), and Jayme Hansen. And I’m surprisingly taken with some of our local brands: Bridge and Burn, Church and State, Pendleton, NAU, and yes, Tanner Goods. Moreover, what continually impresses me is the overarching design community here. From graphic designers to furniture designers, Portland is filled with individuals who appreciate aesthetics.

What tips would you give to someone who is trying to grow a beard like yours?

Be at Zen with however your facial hair grows and find the best way to style it. If you’ve got a patchy or inconsistent pattern to your fur, a shorter beard or stubble is probably better for you, or who knows, try a mustache. Just do what works best for your face. If you’ve got a full and thick beard, grow it out and trim it back to a length that still chisels your features and lets the lines of your bone structure show through. If you’re looking for length, let it come from beneath your jawline and chin.

Gentlemen, meet COMUNE, a brand from LA that couldn’t be further from what I view as “LA.” I’ve tried to let my imagination run wild (yes, even trying to picture the COMUNE model as Emile Hirsch in Lords of Dogtown), and I’m still not really sure how COMUNE is based out of Los Angeles, but that’s neither here nor there (clearly they exist somewhere, otherwise I wouldn’t be writing about ‘em). They call themselves a lifestyle brand, and that lifestyle—as you’ll plainly see—is one that relies on minimal effort, like a one pot meal.

Everything is solid, with the exception of a plaid shirt and a contrasting pocket on a Henley top, which to me makes dressing seem like less of a chore, because the choices are fewer, but every piece can be mixed and matched. Frankly, on my less adventurous days, a stylish ensemble is a plaid shirt unbuttoned, with a simple t-shirt underneath and fitted jeans. Therefore, COMUNE gets me, and some days I just don’t feel like working hard for fashion. I want everything to be amazing and simple and that’s what they’re giving us.

I tend to shy away from most watches. It certainly seems that people feel the more money a man spends on his watch, the better his taste is, but that’s kind of bullshit, to speak bluntly. It might work better than some, but on the surface, some of the more expensive models tend to have too many bells and whistles (and that’s like screeching down a residential neighbourhood in a Ferrari). Triwa claims they are returning to a time when Swedish design was more bold, and I can certainly see that, but even with the extra elements on the face, it still feels refined and worthy of the fascination most people currently have for modern Swedish design. I’d definitely take the purple one for a spin.

The Hudson’s Bay Company scouted Toronto beardos, and I was selected as one, and according to former Fashion Television producer and now Social Media Manager for the company, Christopher Sherman, the shoot was inspired by Dressed for Dinner. I blushed. And then I sat on a stool and played model for an evening (being shot by Jaclyn Locke) while I drank beers with writer Fraser Abe, graphic designer Ron Ruiz, artist and graphic designer Nick Fox, industrial designer Jano Badovinac, artist and academic Dave Colangelo, photographer Brandon Titaro, photographer Stevie Myers, designer Edward Keeble and production assistant Brent Marson. Check out a little teaser below, and see the whole shebang at the b-insider.

Think about what you know about Ben Sherman. Target-Underground branding, mod fits (that fit no one correctly), but ultimately pretty cool (and you wanted to wear the clothes, but most of the time, couldn’t, because, well, the fits were pretty wonky).

The skirts and club collared poplin shirting is gone for the girls, and now, in what seems like a whole new world (for Ben Sherman), Sherms has taken to a full-on menswear concept debut entitled Plectrum, which, to be completely crass, is fucking awesome.

The Plectrum look is heavily workwear-inspired and highlights basics (well, of the genre) like plaid shirting, chunky knit crewneck sweaters, corduroy pants (that I actually like), and very dapper, seemingly cocoon-like suitable-for-maybe-Russia-and-Canada coats (so, hooray for me). So, it is me. I inspired this collection. Okay, I didn’t, but take a look and tell me what you think. I love the green pants.

My beard grows back in an instant. I shaved it off one week ago (above photo) and it is already racing back. Perhaps that is a comment on how much testosterone I have (somewhat laughable), but what it shouldn’t mean is that I’ve lost the focus of this blog. Dressed for Dinner grew into a niche site for beard(o) enthusiasts, but it was also meant to be an investigation of menswear (hopefully more interesting to you than, uh, say, GQ?). This will be the last self-indulgent, look-at-me post. I just thought I’d ease into the return.