I love Thom Browne.
As far as I am concerned, he takes menswear and gives it a new point of view. What impresses me most about Mr. Browne is his unique approach to proportion – he makes it clear that anything goes and he can make “anything” look good.
Take his Fall 2010 runway:
If you look at this outfit as complete, you are absurd. While most people would argue that a fashion show is an opportunity to expose wearable clothes to the highest bidder, Thom Browne not only showcases his tailoring (it is impeccable) but he has fun with separates. I like shows with humour and TB makes me laugh in the most positive way.
Pieces are oversized and shrunken and it is this funhouse aesthetic that makes me feel (in a way) comfortable. What I see are plenty of options and versatility all in one outfit. Send out 20 variations of this look and you have opened up your audience’s mind to a whole new format for viewing runway. It becomes the “wearable art” that so many designers aspire to create. I say this because one outfit creates a number of emotions and questions – it provokes, rather than quiets, which is what I believe makes a great designer.
Call it urban clown, call it a mess – you could really take this look and criticize it for its overuse of pattern and texture, but I see another approach.
Undress the model, one piece at a time.
I could see myself affixing the fur arm bands to a tailored jacket.
The “Magic Eye” boots could be paired with dark denim, a chambray button-up and red bow tie. Keeping everything simple, while accenting with a statement bowtie and unusual footwear will make classic garments fresh and new again:
I see this approach as Thom Browne’s purpose for this collection. He wants us to have as much fun (if not more) viewing his work as he did creating it. It is very cheeky, as we are going to critique his work anyway – so why not make us work for it?
Thom Browne always makes a statement and this season is no exception.
You can view Thom Browne’s entire Fall collection at: http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/complete/F2010MEN-TBMEN