Few menswear labels excite to a point where I will willingly stay awake after working the graveyard shift to catch a glimpse. Unfortunately, there was no live feed, but now that the images are out, my verdict is in: Thom Browne amazes, again.
The theme for Thom Browne’s S/S 2011 collection (which, for the first time was held at Paris Fashion Week) was retro-aerospace, with moon suits and sun-kissed faces, as if models had just returned from a close encounter with a celestial body.
Models undressed from their stark white moon suits to reveal stoic models, standing so still, they mimicked the militaristic astronomy programs of the past.
Unusual* styling aside (* in the most perfect way), Browne showcased what he does best, varying proportions and eye-catching details. Above is a Browne-fit short suit blazer, complete with trim detailing to address the structured lines of the jacket and the well-shaped U-pocket.
A hounds-tooth jacket looked and walked like a Coco Chanel-tweed original. But what made this masculine was its menswear tailoring – a feminine touch is seen in the sewn on ribbon bows, but it does not translate to a ‘ladies who lunch’ look. In fact, it brings unusual details to menswear (traditional, heritage menswear) that we don’t typically see, which deserves some applause (whether men will actually wear it, is still to be seen).
There were plaids and then there were sequin-adorned plaids, which for me, really captured the spirit of Thom Browne as a designer. Browne may be a trendy, of-the-moment designer, but that should not deter any man from selecting a piece as his own. Sure, sequin plaid will not be something that will find continued wear, but it is a statement that works outside of the stodgy traditions we see on the day-to-day. Guys need to live a little.
Contrasting trim and gingham (ah, how I love thee) were also features that shined, which can be hard if your models have glitter-glued lips and a carrot tan. Thom Browne’s collection boasted varying textures, Browne-style proportions (he is, after all, the master of the short suit) and pops of colour for those looking to brighten up. My obsession with Thom Browne’s fantastic fits runs deep in my veins and I hope that in some near future, I will have the opportunity to sport a coat, a pant (and if I am really lucky), everything he touches that has turned to fashion gold.
photos by Style.com