Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring 2011 collection evoked a feeling of familiarity – we may have seen the aesthetic before in a history book, but Yamamoto brings antiquated design to the 21st century with his standard play with proportion.
A tweed 2 piece is paired with a white shirt, completed by a bow-tied collar. Each separate is kept loose and oversized, as per Yamamato’s stamp of authenticity. However, instead of a run-of-the-mill button up, the shirt is closed by a blended zip.
Yamamoto’s tone-on-tone creations came in three, showing the audience how “matchy matchy” should be a colloquialism of the past. Here you’ll see three separate matched ensembles that are not only successful, but push the boundaries of what colour should mean in fashion. It is not just for a pop anymore.
Since trends always come in threes, I’d say Yamamoto saved himself the trouble and decided it was time for colour to be straight from the shoulder.
Bow ties made repeat appearances on runways in Paris this Spring, but Yamamoto’s touch was more impressive. His bows lose their formality in the way they are tightly knotted and loose around the collar. Much like his interpretation of old 18th century tradition, decoration and embellishments were less formal, with proportions that exceeded any definition of traditional menswear tailoring.
His suiting as always was the focus of this season’s collection, but patchwork embellishments, wallpaper prints and the most beautifully lengthened cotton knit were highlights of the show. If you are looking for oversized pieces with emphasis on draping, there is no better than Yohji Yamamoto.
photos by Style.com