Jakob Birgens’ Denmark label Frost Birgens takes a somewhat anti-tailored approach to menswear. For most men, anti-tailored sounds too casual and – for some – sloppy. But the Birgens brand has developed itself around Bob Dylan, Leonard Cohen and Rei Kawakubo – style icons whose mix of casual and tailored pieces have inspired waves of men to follow in their footsteps.
You’ll notice that the Birgens staples are what you add to your wardrobe every season. A lightweight sweater and a comfortable (and colourful) short breathe the casual, care-free attitude of spring/summer.
There is also a huge emphasis on peek details, as seen in the pants above and the leather patched and pocketed cardigan (also above). The styling of this particular ensemble is – in a term – a bit extravagant for my tastes, insofar as my eye does not really know where to fall. The hat demands attention, but so do the envelope pockets and by the time you reach the pants, you are so out of breath that you don’t care anymore. While these pieces would succeed as separates (pants paired with an oxford button-up, cardigan with Japanese raw denim, etc…), they are much too scattered as a head-to-toe look.
But basic and interesting is the brand’s MO. Frost Birgens creates a wide array of separates that are not stuffy, but newly fitted for today’s anti-tailored response to our long term love affair with heritage essentials. Everything is done with a wink, but with purpose.
Oh and before I forget, pay close attention to the last lookbook photo in the series. The tight-like long johns are simply wonderful.