D.S. Dundee A/W 2010-11


D.S. Dundee is a contemporary menswear label based in East London that has chosen to focus on “luxury.” Although some might contest that the idea of “luxury” is ever-evolving, I’ll skip the politics and simply say that theirs (DSD) is cemented by their use of quality fabrics and yarns, but their cut-from-the-same cloth inspirations (their line is wholly inspired by textile history and country dressing) tell me they aren’t just propping themselves up as “luxe” – when they say the word, they mean it. And the history-inspired textiles prove they’ve done the research.

The above look is quintessential winter dressing (or, it is for me). Leather and canvas footwear is paired with a thick fair isle sock and that same fair isle pattern is carried through a choice sweater. The modest v allows for exposed layers, which in this case comes in the form of a classic cotton pinpoint button-up, but my favourite option from this entire look is the waxed cotton field  jacket with detachable sheepskin collar. Even the wider-leg mossy green corduroy trousers add dimension without widening the silhouette. I’d make the argument that this is exactly what a man needs, but each of us is different. But it is exactly what I need, from head to toe (especially toe).

Although the pants and boots haven’t changed in the above look (if anything, this shows how adaptable their clothing is), the field jacket has been swapped for a belted alternative. The waist is cinched, outlining the slimmest part  of the model’s body, but the placket is left open to show off a deep v-neck and plaid shirting. Both items are essential for the holidays (or always) and DS Dundee has shown how to effectively layer a bold pattern with a distinctive jacket. The middle layer (in this case, the almost-butter yellow cardigan) hides a majority of the plaid to ground the maximum impact of the shirting.

Other points of interest include the use of Harris tweed (a certification indicating a high standard of craftsmanship) and the introduction of novelty ties, such as the one worn by the model above.

DS Dundee’s collection isn’t great because the model has a beard, or because I can see myself in a lot (all) of the clothes. The collection is great for those reasons, but it is their attention to quality (excellent finishing, great cuts, choice materials and proper fits) that elevate it to an upper echelon of menswear – the kind of menswear that has read a book or the kind of menswear that you don’t want to push into a pool at a party.

photos courtesy D.S. Dundee

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