LG Fashion Week S/S 2010: Day 2 and 3

My experience at LG Fashion Week this year has been incredible. Working for a designer is incredibly stressful no matter what capacity you find yourself, but where there were downs, there were ups and I do not think I would change my experiences this season for anything.  Here are some of the key players who make an event like LG Fashion Week what it is:

The Photographer

photo of David Pike | photo by Kevin Naulls

David is a friend of mine and a talent, who grabs a hold of his beloved camera and shoots the best and the worst of the runway. You can see some of his work at http://www.flickr.com/davidpike

The Press: Fashion Television

photo of Mosha Lundström Halbert and Russ Martin | photo by Kevin Naulls

Mosha works for Fashion Television, an ongoing televised fashion journal that explores the ins and outs of the shows that most people cannot access. Apart from working with Fashion Television, she has written for Flare and photographed New York Fashion Week attendees for Fashion Magazine. See her as the star of Ashley Rowe’s fashion film Les Smoking.

The Designers

photo of Sunny Fong (VAWK) and guest | photo by Kevin Naulls

photo of Jessica Biffi | photo by Kevin Naulls

photo of Pat McDonagh | photo by Kevin Naulls

Without designers, you have no show. These are just a few of the designers who showed this season at LG Fashion Week. If there is one thing I have learned, it is that Fashion, like a lot of things, remains subjective. Designers, as is said, are only as good as their last collection and one thing remained clear to me when watching these shows: it is not easy. I had the opportunity to be behind the scenes with a designer this year and it is almost magical how everything seems to come together at the final moments before a man comes over the PA system and angrily grunts “PLEASE GET TO YOUR SEATS, WE ARE TRYING TO START THE SHOW.” Some might say it looks effortless, but looks can be very deceiving.

The Fashion Crowd

photo of Scott Smith | photo by Kevin Naulls

Scott Smith is a burgeoning clothing designer, committed to quality, luxury basics.  Scott and co-owner Dylan Noble are creating a label to watch out for in 2010, and you can check out Galbraith Apparel in the coming months for updates.

photo of Lawrence Ayliffe | photo by Kevin Naulls

I met Lawrence on my way out from the Rain Anthology show and I had to take his photo. The bright orange scarf and pocket square combo caught my eye and his spectacles really tied the sophisticated ensemble together. Definitely one of my favourite looks of the season. So dapper.

The Blogger

photo of Kevin Naulls (Dressed for Dinner) | photo by David Pike

This was a very small glimpse into the amount of work people put into LG Fashion Week.  At the end of the day,  I am among many small fish in a very large pond. What connects us is our passion for fashion.

LG Fashion Week: Patio chic at Bustle

Shawn Hewson and Ruth Promislow (Bustle) | photo by Kevin Naulls (Dressed for Dinner)

You know their story, the one about the two Bay Street lawyers turned fashion stars. You have heard their story, because they live up to their hype as designers, creating classic pieces that can continue to be on heavy rotation for seasons to come.

Two of the heavy components for the show were coral and blue plaids and arboreal prints that were painted on with a richness that looked almost like pieces had been tar-splattered.

Bustle S/S 2010 | photo by National Post

Plaid was incorporated throughout the collection, featured as lining for collars, trim and pants. I absolutely fell in love with a pair of pink plaid pants.

Bustle S/S 2010 | photo by Kevin Naulls (Dressed for Dinner)

Bustle always puts on a wonderful show. The music was energetic (Martin Solveig feat. Dragonette – Boys and Girls and The Gossip) and the models looked very comfortable in what they were wearing. Stacey McKenzie was naturally the most comfortable:

Stacey McKenzie makes her presence known | photo by Kevin Naulls

Surprisingly, so was Rick Mercer (who is now a model):

Rick Mercer discusses new career as model | photo by Kevin Naulls

In the short time the models had with the runway, Bustle sent a myriad of separates, effectively layering cardigans, blazers and tennis shirts. Everything was colourful, including their guests:

Madeline Cravit (right) and friend | photo by Kevin Naulls (Dressed for Dinner)

When I saw Madeline and her friend, I knew I wanted to capture them on film. They had the retro aesthetic going for them that I really respond to. It is almost Mad Men 2.0 – a little more contemporary, but fun and sexy at the same time.

Chloe Beckerman | photo by Kevin Naulls (Dressed for Dinner)

It should be obvious why Chloe stood out to me. The cherry red popped and demanded attention, but it was balanced with earth tones to showcase a complete, unified (and very unique) ensemble . I knew I needed to capture this look – a definite stand out last night. Chloe is a fashion designer and information about her day to day style, along with her sisters can be found at http://beckermanbiteplate.blogspot.com/. See the Beckermans website (http://www.beckermans.com/) for more information about their collections.

Tanya Chevannes and Heidi Ondrusek | photo by Kevin Naulls (Dressed for Dinner)

Heidi and Tanya were sweethearts. After assuming they were models, I took their card and walked away, thinking that their card was the barrier between me and taking their photograph (I can be such a novice!). Turns out it was a big, hilarious misunderstanding and although they could definitely be models because they are gorgeous, they are stylists at an online fashion magazine. Have a look at some of their work at http://patentonlinemag.com/.

Uniqlo x Jil Sander = +J

Jil Sander has always been known for her precision detailing, emphasizing the importance of cut and draping over time-sensitive fashion trends. After leaving her label in 2005, she has yet to preview a new collection, but on October 1st, in collaboration with Uniqlo, she will be presenting 140+ designs for men and women.

Flashback: Jil Sander Milan, 2005

Jil Sander F/W 2005 | photo by Style.com

Jil Sander F/W 2005 | photo by Style.com

The above designs illustrate how Jil Sander can stand as a critical designer for women. In 2005, she played with traditional silhouettes and accessories (see Oxfords in photo two), showcasing clothing that can and does stand the test of time. Combine this insight with her ability to craft impeccably tailored and draped clothing and what you have is one of the most compelling designers of our time.

Thankfully, with a capsule line in tow, the world is going to be reintroduced to the legend herself. The same simplified elegance that expanded her appeal in the beginning is captured in her line +J for Uniqlo.

+J by Jil Sander | photo by Uniqlo

+J by Jil Sander | photo by Uniqlo

+J by Jil Sander | photo by Uniqlo

+J by Jil Sander | photo by Uniqlo

–

Mark your calendars!

The launch for Jil Sander’s collection is October 1st in the U.S. and UK and October 2nd in Asian Markets.

+J will be available from the Uniqlo World store.

Some Major Locations

New York | Soho

546 Broadway, New York, NY 10012 USA

Phone: 917 237-8811

London, UK | Oxford Street

311 Oxford Street London W1C 2HP

Phone: 020 7290 7701

France

Niveau 1
Centre Commercial Les 4 Temps La Défense
15 Parvis de la Défense – 92092 Paris La Defense

Photo: 01-49-67-01-90

All stores will carry a limited selection, so it would be my advice to get there early to get your sizes. Happy hunting. October is going to be exciting!

Separate the women from the boys

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler have created a Spring/Summer collection that brings you a world of separates and fun party dresses in an assortment of vibrant colours.

Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2010 | photo by Style.com

The detailing is what makes this outfit so exciting. The graphic print shines in electric greens and yellows with fringe that falls well before the knee. This dress is the perfect eye-popping party dress and it combines the hardness of the print with the soft playfulness of the fringe.

The juxtaposition of hard and soft creates an interesting effect that produces movement out of a fabric that would normally be perceived as merely durable and better tailored to form-fitted silhouettes. By layering fabric and fringe, there is a flow to the skirt that provides interest without over-embellishment.

Stunning Separates

Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2010 | photo by Style.com

The best part about Proenza Schouler’s collection for Spring/Summer is that their ready to wear pieces are very versatile, with potential for casual and evening.

Blazer: The blazer could be matched with your favourite pair of fitted denim and something as easy and simple as a basic white t-shirt. You can even dress the blazer up with a sequin mini dress and killer heels to perfect a very sexy night time look.

Blouse: As for the blouse, it is simple enough for a daytime work look if combined with a smart trouser or pencil skirt, but because of its sheen, it can be accompanied by a modest black short short for daytime or miniskirt for late-night drinks. Practicality is something that is easily measured in Schouler’s Spring/Summer collection, because nothing is too garish to work for just “the right person.” A shimmering blouse and oversized blazer are simple and elegant separates that should become staples in every woman’s wardrobe.

Shirt-wrap skirt: The ’skirt’ is the most playful and original design of the above outfit. It looks as though the model has wrapped her boyfriend’s Oxford shirt around her waist, along with anything else she could find on his floor. This look is not for everyone, but given the lax attitude it captures, it really does not work for the office or a meal at your favourite restaurant. This creation will hit a note with anyone bored of the traditional skirt silhouettes and I can see it being worn to an art opening, magazine launch and even on a daylight stroll through the city. The practicality of this dress comes from the fact that it is a look that most people have attempted at one point in their lives (wrapping a sweater around their waist) unsuccesfully. Schouler ups the style quotient with this ’skirt’ because it takes that nostalgic aesthetic and makes it sexy and less frumpy. Still, it cannot be worn by every woman because the skirt does add bulk, so it would only really work with a slim silhouette.

The Cat’s Meow

Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2010 | photo by Style.com

There is nothing more sexy than a woman who embraces colour without going overboard. I am not bored by this outfit and I also haven’t uttered the phrase “try-hard” which suggests that McCollough and Hernandez have made something special. This is a shape we have all seen before, but how colour and texture are paired is what makes this design the most appealing. Once again, they have explored separates, but this time with less emphasis on traditional staple pieces. The bright animal print screams “take me to the LA club scene.” Somewhere in LA-LA-Land, Rachel Zoe is just dying over this one.

Duffle is a Bit of a Kerfuffle

Purists might say that Gloverall is the only true maker of Duffle coats and while there will always be imitators, no one else could ever get it right. I will always nod toward Gloverall as the quintessential Duffle-maker, but Trovata unleashes its own version of the British staple that caught my eye, with a minimalism that speaks to a new culture of fashion seekers who thrive on creating interest out of simple, traditional pieces.

Traditional Gloverall Duffle Coat (Navy)

The original Duffle was made in Britain in the late 19th century and was worn by Navy personnel in World Wars I and II. It was not until after World War II that the design became available for the marketplace and soon after its release, it became a wardrobe staple among civilians. Traditionally, the toggles were made of wood and the jacket always had a hood but future designs would include plastic or horn toggles and a collar would replace the hood. Whether you are a purist or not, it is hard to escape the value of a Duffle Coat, because its simplicity provides a canvas that will allow you to play around with the rest of your ensemble. The original design contains a boxy cut that tends toward more casual attire, while Trovata’s design offers a more form-fitted silhouette that presents more options to consider for what you might wear underneath. As you may have already considered, a tight fitting pant over a boxy traditional Gloverall may make the wearer appear top heavy and in this sense, Trovata provides an alternative.

Duffle 2009

Trovata F/W 2009-10 photo by Style.com

The plaid lining, toggles and hood all speak to the traditions that are already cemented in the fabric itself. Duffle (a heavy woolen fabric) will always be known for its placement in the British Duffle coat, but by piecing these traditional aspects and adding a collar and less emphasis on the toggles themselves, Trovata’s coat enters a more modern aesthetic and I am left wondering if it is too much or if it really hits the mark. I am in love with the styling of the outfit and I like the militaristic feel that is achieved with the form fitting pant and laced up combat boot, but I become bewildered by the collar/hood combination. In the above photograph, the military aesthetic is achieved and the model himself looks great in the jacket, but should he put the hood up, I wonder if the jacket would retain its clean, simple and effortless look. My instincts tell me that there would be too much emphasis at the collar and it would take away from the other detailing (toggles, lining) that complete the look.

For these reasons, I feel Trovata’s Duffle needs an edit.

Something to note: Given the Duffle’s overall popularity, it may be pricey to buy new, or even vintage, but I urge you to start looking now, because the best quality vintage Gloverall’s get snatched up quite early (it is most definitely a pre-season purchase). I know for a fact that Toronto’s Kensington market has several in the various vintage shops the area has to offer and while some may not be authentic, they are usually almost undetectable. My advice would be to look for quality. By that I mean you should inspect the toggles and insure they are intact (botched toggle sewing could be the difference between a Winter in style and a Winter in your old H and M bubble jacket).

A Shoulder to JUST DIE on!

Under the tutelage of Christophe Decarnin, Balmain has presented shoulders in a season where having something to cry on has become all the rage. Balmain’s almost cult-like following has left fashion-seekers demanding more from the popular designer and 2009-10’s Autumn/Winter collection shows luxury women’s wear at its best.

The first piece that really got me excited was this architecturally stunning leather jacket:

Balmain F/W 2009-10 photo by Style.com

Decarnin’s jacket emphasizes the shoulder which brings attention to the top half of the model’s body. Her face appears vibrant and her collarbone is exposed to show elongation in the neck. The overall effect is a long, lean silhouette which only needs to be paired with something simple such as a slim black trouser or as is in this case, some tapered black denim. This look addresses the need for casual elegance and would be perfect for going to a concert in the city.

A shimmer and a shoulder

Balmain F/W 2009-10 photo by Style.com

Decarnin clearly had a focus for his Fall collection, so I won’t drone on endlessly about the importance of a strong shoulder (because at this point, you already know). However, what I found very desirable about this above look is how the shoulder is paired with an impeccable attention to detail. Meticulous sequin creates an additional impact and appeal to the upper half of the model’s body. This piece highlights the importance of structure and craftsmanship and it just goes to show how little impact you need to make to pull off a complete look that seems almost effortless to wear. Having one or several key pieces that show immediate impact in your wardrobe will allow you to put your basics to work. Everyone should already have a pair of sexy black pants in their wardrobe and if you take the detailing from Balmain’s latest collection and find several pieces that create similar impact (recession times call for recessional measures), you will find that you will pull off a wow factor that requires very little prep time.

Goodbye Raybans, Hello Ascots

There is always debate on how someone can make an impact. Do you drench yourself in colour, do you make bolder choices with your accessories or do you merely make modern adjustments to old classics? Ultimately, the choice is yours, but this summer, simplicity will be your gateway into the coveted ‘double-take.’

Mainstream turns out ‘must-have’

The O.C. effect did for music what Gossip Girl is doing for  fashion. Top fashion designers are providing frocks for instant publicity. Serena and Blair become overnight fashionistas and Chuck Bass, besides being the object of my fantastical affection gave new rise to bespoke tailoring and classic English touches.

Could you really blame me for finding ‘the Basshole’ attractive? He makes being bad look so good.

Ed Westwick as Chuck Bass

The ultimate show-stopping feature of Bass’ outfit is his covetable ascot/foulard. My eye is immediately drawn to it, because it is so out of the ordinary in a North American context. Chuck Bass is a relatively outstanding and dapper dresser, but you could easily wear something as simple as a white button up shirt, streamlined blazer and jeans. In fact, the effect would be that much stronger, because the ascot will really pop and catch the eye of any passer-by. Securing you, the double-take.

Ford’s Foulard

Tom Ford S/S 09 Ascot

Tom Ford introduces an ascot/foulard into his Spring/Summer 09, nodding toward England, but maintaining some interest for an American market with a pairing of geometrics and polka dots. The effect is a modern interpretation of the classic navy bandana and it would look sharp around the neck of any man or woman who is looking to draw a little necessary attention to their top half.

Interested?

This 1906 instructional pamphlet will give you a quick and easy lesson on how to wear your new summer staple:

1906 pamphlet image

Skirting the Issue

Since 1999, Anderslandinger has been creating the male equivalent of a Spring/Summer staple. Sure, 2009 is not the first time the world has been given a preview of avant-garde aesthetics with a ‘man skirt,’ but 2009/10 proves to be the year where a man can wear a skirt and still be called masculine, without seeming too playful and dramatic. This look will work best if you choose to pair this season’s male staple with dress  socks, brogues (or another dressy equivalent), sharp Oxford shirt and possibly a blazer.The skirt must be your show stopping piece, leaving little emphasis on accessories and additional pieces. However, when choosing to wear a skirt or kilt, the sky can really be your limit – it all depends on how far you want to push the trend.

Think of it in terms of interior design. When entering a room, there should be a focal point, because if your eye travels to too many places at once, the overall aesthetic seems scattered and lacking in cohesion. By combining subtle, more classic pieces with the advent of the new ‘man skirt’, the outfit comes together seamlessly, introducing a new look that before may have come across as too feminine.

Fantastic Man S/S 2009

Pushing the Trend

Anderslandinger's Helsinki Skirt

As you can see, this 100% virgin wool skirt by Anderslandinger has been paired with knee high combat boots, which creates a rougher edge overall. This is an example of pushing the trend past a more formal look. The observer wonders if the wearer is hoping to detract from the femininity inherant in the skirt or if this look is meant to wow on multiple levels.  This pairing does not fail, but it certainly takes a degree of confidence for a regular day time look. This skirt/boot combo would pair nicely with a pressed Oxfort shirt with the top 1 or 2 buttons undone for a more casual feel.

Spotted: Marc Jacobs

Photo of Marc Jacobs by Getty Images

Marc Jacobs can be regularly seen on the streets of New York in his kilt and combat boots, but as seen here, he has paired a beautiful tartan with black leather sandals and the effect is casual, yet classic. I think what excites me about the very idea of mens skirts is how  impactful a statement you can make with such a simple idea. There will be a excited response, because people are not yet comfortable with the idea of men in what are traditionally womens clothing. This debate between feminine and masculine will continue for years to come, but from where I am sitting, there is definitely sex appeal, confidence and strength that come from a man in a skirt who does not succumb to traditional male standards of masculinity. Why shouldn’t a man with nice legs show them off? If you’ve got ‘em, flaunt ‘em.

Bypassing the Boy Jean

The “boyfriend” jean has taken the world by storm, with A list celebrities refusing to be caught dead in last season’s dark and raw revolution. Boy by Band of Outsiders does not buck this trend entirely, but it takes the boy aesthetic to another level, mixing masculinity and feminity to create an overall look that emphasizes the importance of fit and bold choices.

Boy by Band of Outsiders F/W 2009-19

A dramatic heel is packed full of colour and sneaker-inspired edge, contrasting the more casual nature of a rolled up short.  Boy by Band of Outsiders creates their ‘boy’ aesthetic by mixing casual and tailored pieces. Notable is a well-tailored double-breasted jacket that shines alonside gold button detailing. The jacket is matched with a chimney sweep-inspired hat and simple t-shirt that allow the bold heel and well-crafted jacket to emphasize the lax quality of the boyish aesthetic. Band of Outsiders literalizes the classic theme of boy-meets-girl and shows how the aesthetics of traditional masculinity can be made feminine with the right focus on detailing.

Boy by Band of Outsiders F/W 2009-10

My advice? Ditch the ubiquitous boyfriend jean for something a little bit less subtle. Choose well tailored pieces and accent them with colour, but don’t stop there. To complete this look, the word ‘relaxed’ will be key, but don’t overwhelm the outfit with a baggy jean, try a less structured blazer or a slouchy hat and shorts to bridge the masculine and feminine touches. Try this and you will out-fashion any A-lister.

Paris Reveals a New Springtime Glamour

The highlight of Paris’ Spring fashion week was Tsumari Chisato’s fun and flirty collection. The colours were bold and the dresses looked effortless as they were constructed as if pieced together from bolts of fabric that came from the land of the misfit toys. The make up and styling were forward and the dresses could be seen on any young woman looking to show off a little leg and a whole lot of confidence.

For Chisato, Spring has sprung and this season’s palette is bold and edgy:

Tsumori Chisato Spring 2009

The look is youthful and playful, with an apron of colourful plaid fabric that gains the observer’s atttention.  Not nearly as demure as your typical Spring dress, Chisato edges out the competition with a more rugged rock and roll style with hints of Manga inspiration.

Tsumori Chisato Spring 2009

Sack dresses have come and gone and Chisato addresses this with volume, lots of volume. The top of this Spring dress seems fairly conventional, yet there is a subtle variation in fit. Chisato keeps the waistline trim and leaves space for the rest of her garment. The effect is a more contemporary, voluminous silhouette that will not be figure friendly for all those who apply. However, those that succeed, will venture into a world of whimsy, with an exciting new silhouette that screams fashion forward. This graphic Chisato dress should be on everyone’s wish list.

Photos by Pierre Verdy